Jetstreams over London by Lindsay du Plessis
Articles & Stories Travel Articles The Road to the Northern Lights
| The Road to the Northern Lights |
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 When you drive along the coastal road to Northern Scotland, beside the cliffs and winding farmland hedges, it’s possible to imagine yourself in a Bronte novel. It’s dark and mysterious, romantic and windswept, and the wide open spaces fill your soul with freedom. The best way to make the most of this part of the country is to rent a car with a few mates (or drive your own, obviously) and do it over a long weekend. There is so much to see along the road to John O’Groats, the most northerly town in mainland Britain, that doing it any other way would be a waste of money. Before you pass through the Highlands completely and the mountains give way to flat plains, it is imperative to stop at Urquhart Castle (pronounced err-kit) on the banks of Loch Ness. There are few sights as majestic as this ruin, which sits on an outcrop of rock stretching into the lake. It was built by the Picts as early as 597AD, and continued to expand until Alexander II took control of it in the 13th century. This castle is fascinating because of its turbulent history, having swapped hands between various Scottish clans, as well as English kings, before it was destroyed in 1689. The protestant garrison occupying the castle decided that if they had to leave, they would make sure no-one else had a happy occupation. This vital protective fortress was blown up as the Jacobites looked on and the Protestants waved farewell.  A trip from Fort William to John O’Groats should take around four hours, but we and our little rental car decided to stop at every conceivable point of interest along the way, thus extending the trip to eight hours. We stopped at little villages for tea, looked at farmer’s markets and stopped along the road at every opportunity to take pictures of the incredible scenery. Around every corner a new view appeared, more (I’m trying very hard not to say breathtaking) awesome than the last. At one stage along the way we saw a castle in the distance and decided to visit it. But the road was closed and the sign said “Private, no entry to the publicâ€. But Jaco, our driver, said bugger it, and we sped off down the driveway. Cornette, his sister, and I scrambled for our cameras and opened windows for a drive-by shooting. “Ok, nou! Neem die fotos! O fok, hier kom mense, reverse Jaco reverse!†Jaco did a donut, and with a spray of gravel we raced off the private property to freedom.  Still giddy with photographic success and fresh air, we followed the signs directing us to Dunrobin Castle, ancestral home of the Duke of Sutherland. Think fairytales and turrets and manicured gardens. Think long drawing rooms filled with antiques and ballrooms covered in ancient family paintings. Think astounding amounts of space and money, with a view of the turbulent sea from every glazed window. They even have a falconry display every afternoon at three, expect if it’s raining. At last, after our many detours, we reached John O’Groats. The town was founded in the 1500’s by a Dutchman called Jan de Groot, who ran a ferry from his little house on the shore to the Orkney Isles, which are visible across the sea on a clear day. The fee for the trip became known as a ‘groat’, and the town was anglicised to its current version. The town is famous not because of what it has (a post office, a pub and a very decent hotel), but because of where it is. If you ever want to see the Aurora Borealis, A.K.A the Northern Lights, then this is the place to go. It is essentially on the Arctic Circle, and on a clear winter night the sky is illuminated by heavenly strobe lights. According to locals, the lights are unpredictable, but from around mid-October through November they appear fairly regularly. This is when the area is coldest, but also when the sky is relatively cloud-free. A few miles away from the town sits Dunnet Head, the absolute most northern point of Britain. It has a light house and a view that would give the faint of heart a case of vertigo. It is also unprotected by buildings, and as the wind blows at gale force for much of the year, be sure to wear what is in that town hilariously known as a windbreaker.  If you’re a fan of the royal family, be sure to visit the late Queen Mother’s favourite home. Castle Mey is right on the coast next to Dunnet Head and has the feel of your granny’s living room. It’s filled with family mementos, pictures of the grandkids and dogs, and boasts the world’s most northerly Highland Cattle - The original surfer dudesherd of Aberdeen Angus cows.  The Queen Mum loved these bovines so much that she had them transported up to her castle, and her most valued member of staff was her herdsman. The black Angus’s are in sharp contrast to their cattle cousins, the blonde Highland Cows. These animals are hairy and shaggy, and are very unbothered by cars and people taking pictures. They are like the surfer boys of the farmyard, with their chilled attitude and long blonde hair. The wonderful thing about the far north of Scotland is that it’s uncluttered. There are few tourists for most of the year, and the space is the perfect antidote to the rat-racing chaos that is London. And it’s breathtakingly beautiful. Sorry. Copyright - Lindsay du Plessis For permission to publish these articles or photographs, or to commission articles - Contact Me |
